Showing posts with label Tahiti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tahiti. Show all posts

Friday, December 9, 2016

Adventure classics – Succumb to the lure of an island

The Moon and Sixpence

by W. Somerset Maugham
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How’d you like to spend Christmas on Christmas Island? . . . across the sea, great big coconut tree? – Lyle Moraine

“. . . but for the hazard of a journey to Tahiti I should doubtless never have written the book,” says the unnamed narrator of W. Somerset Maugham’s 1919 novel, The Moon and Sixpence, based loosely – and the operative word is “loosely,” on the life of the French painter Paul Gauguin.

Gauguin, 1879
Unlike the protagonist of Maugham’s story, English stockbroker turned painter Charles Strickland, Gauguin had painted for nearly two decades before making Tahiti one of several of his artistic destinations. But in popular imagination – helped possibly by Maugham’s fictionalized version – his name is forever linked with his time on the French Polynesian South Pacific island. (Although Gauguin had become a stockbroker as a young man, he was already an established painter strongly influenced by Impressionism even before a stock market downturn influenced him to become a fulltime artist, as shown by the 1873 painting of a snowy landscape that is one of the illustrations of this post.)

And as I look out my window at a garden lapsing into wintry grayness, I can sympathize with the longings of Gauguin, and his fictional alter ego, Charles Strickland, and even Maugham, for the blue skies and bright light of the legendary island.

Maugham had visited the island in 1916 while researching his book (he was at that time also working with the British Secret Service and travelling extensively Asia, experiences he incorporated in later books). Also, like Strickland, who abandons his conventional wife, Maugham may have found being half a world away from his own romantic entanglements a relief.

Although he was primarily attracted to men, his affair with an unhappily married woman, Syrie Wellcome, who had given birth to Maugham’s only child in 1915. Syrie and her husband had been separated for some time (and she was reputed to have add other affairs), but the birth of her child was apparently the last straw, and her husband divorced her, naming Maugham as co-respondent. Syrie and Maugham married in 1917 but spent most of their marriage apart before finally divorcing in 1928.

Maugham would later deny paternity of their child, and Syrie, now Syrie Maugham, would become a sought-after interior decorator famous for all-white rooms. It would be no wonder if Maugham hankered for brighter colors, and his description of his first sight of Tahiti is full of wonder and delight – “. . . a lofty green island, with deep folds of a darker green, in which you divine silent valleys. . . Even here is something sad and terrible. But the impression is fleeting, and serves only to give a greater acuteness to the enjoyment of the moment. . . (at the harbor of Papeete) the color dazzles you.”

Wait! Just one minute – when we left the story last week, Maugham’s hero, Charles Strickland, had just run away to Paris and was living in a fashionable district in the luxurious Hotel des Belges with his young mistress. Or was he?

Maugham’s unnamed narrator follows Strickland’s supposed trail, only to find that the only hotel of that name was in a “quarter that was not fashionable; it was) not even respectable. . . It was a tall, shabby building, that cannot have been painted for years, and it had (a) bedraggled air. . . It was not here that Charles Strickland lived in guilty splendor with the unknown charmer for whose sake he had abandoned honour and duty.”

Still, the narrator persists, and finds Strickland indeed, with “no sign of the abandoned luxury (Strickland’s family) had described.” And Strickland is alone, so much so that when the narrator asks, Strickland replies that of course he’s alone, because his French is too bad to carry on conversations.
Still, the reader might have some reason to expect romance. It’s Paris!

Gauguin, 1887
But although the earlier part of Maugham’s story is ostensibly set in the late 19th century (Gauguin, after all died in 1903), for the initial readers, the shadow of World War I’s horror hung over the city. Everything is dark and shabby, including the affair Strickland does fall into with the wife of a fellow painter, who commits suicide when he abandons her also. (Syrie Maugham, fortunately, did not take the hint, surviving Maugham’s subsequent abandonment quite nicely.)

But Strickland has, at least, tired again of conventions and is on the lookout for some place where he can paint without such hindrances. He makes his way to the port of Marseilles, hoping to find work on a ship sailing toward the South Seas.

“It is here that I purposed to end my book,” Maugham’s narrator says. “I wished to leave Strickland setting out with I know not what fancies in his lonely soul for the unknown islands which fired his imagination. I liked the picture of him, starting at the age of forty-seven, when most men have already settled comfortably in a groove, for a new world. . . but I could not manage it.”

Maugham had actually tracked down a Polynesian woman Gauguin lived with in Tahiti, but found her as uncommunicative as his fictional character, Charles Strickland. So excusing himself with the statement that “(he) made no particular impression on the people who came in contact with him in Tahiti. . . remarkable only for the peculiarity that he painted pictures which seemed to them absurd; and it was not till he had been dead for some years and agents came from the dealers in Paris and Berlin to look for any pictures which might still remain on the island, that they had any idea that among them had dwelt a man of consequence.”

(Next Friday, Adventure classics continues a December of adventures of self-discovery with the rest of the story of W. Somerset Maugham’s The Moon and Sixpence.)

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Adventure classics -- Becoming history's most famous mutiny


Mutiny on the Bounty

by Charles Nordhoff & James Norman Hall

#

What does it take to become the most famous shipboard mutiny in history? Location, location, location.

After all, who can imagine the nonlethal takeover of a ship in peacetime carrying a cargo of fruit trees, such as occurred on HMS Bounty in 1789 still resonating if it hadn’t occurred in the glorious islands of the South Seas, destination of dreamers like Paul Gauguin, Robert Louis Stevenson, Jack London, Thor Heyerdahl?

American journalists Charles Nordhoff and James Norman Hall were relatively footloose after the First World War. They wrote first separately, then in collaboration on a history of the Lafayette flying squadron in which both had served. But they wanted a place where their money could stretch further than it did in the U.S.

“Each had ambitions, talents, and memories of great price. To transmute these intangibles into three meals per diem was the prosaic problem put to me,” Atlantic Magazine editor Ellery Sedgwick wrote in his introduction to the 1932 edition of the pair’s most famous collaboration. Over lunch at an Italian restaurant, “I called for a geography. We opened it at Mercator’s projection, and hardly were the pages pinned down by twin cruets of oil and vinegar, when both the adventures with a single swoop pointed to the route which Stevenson had taken.”

Nordhoff remained in Tahiti for twenty years, Hall for life. They married island women, sailed, fished and wrote, including the fictionalized volumes of the Bounty trilogy -- Mutiny on the Bounty, Men Against the Sea (the story of Bounty captain William Bligh’s incredible voyage in a small boat after the mutiny), and Pitcairn’s Island, the story of the mutineers who left Tahiti under the command of Fletcher Christian.

Nordhoff and Hall laid blame for the mutiny on Bligh’s tyrannical behavior, exacerbated by an exceptionally long outward voyage. (After the Bounty was unsuccessful in attempting to reach Tahiti by way of South America’s Cape Horn, it recrossed the Atlantic and rounded the Cape of Good Hope, a ten month voyage.)

Bligh’s own 1790 narrative blamed the attractions of easy living and local women, with whom numerous members of the Bounty’s crew formed relationships during the lengthy layover needed to prepare its cargo of breadfruit trees for transport. So add sex and island languor to a list of requirements for a really famous mutiny. Or just file those under “location.”

Although the mutineers hardly expected Bligh to survive his ordeal at sea, it was only a matter of time before more ships would arrive to investigate the Bounty’s disappearance. Surprisingly, several mutineers chose to stay on Tahiti. The rest fled with Christian, searching for refuge for some of those dots on the map still undiscovered in the late eighteenth century. With a crew of mutineers and Polynesians, they founded a colony on the then unhabited Pitcairn Island. In 1825, the sole surviving mutineer, John Adams (also known as Alexander Smith), was granted amnesty for his role. Descendents of the mutineers are still among the fewer than fifty inhabitants of the tiny island.

Although Fletcher Christian seems the obvious main character, Nordhoff and Hall chose instead young midshipman Roger Bynam, a fictionalized version of actual crewman Peter Heywood. This choice enabled them to follow the fate of the mutineers and innocent crew members not marooned with Bligh, saving Christian’s story for the final volume of their trilogy.

And enabled them to close with a heartbreaking scene for Bynam, who remained with the British Navy for another twenty years of exile from his Tahitian wife and child. He returns after the Napoleonic wars to find the island devastated by the diseases and vices of civilization, his wife dead, and only a single Polynesian friend remaining.

“All these years, while my country has been engaged in constant wars, I have dreamed of coming back,“ Bynam tells his old friend Tuahu. “I wish to see my daughter; not to make myself known to her. To tell her I am her father, to embrace her, to speak with her of her mother, would be more than I could endure. You understand?”

Tuahu smiled sorrowfully. “I understand,” he said.

(Next Wednesday, Adventure classics begins a September of young adventurers with Harper Lee’s To Kill A Mockingbird.)